Feb 04, 2026

Why Your Dog Lunges at Other Dogs (And How to Stop It)

You see another dog approaching on the sidewalk. Your stomach drops. You know what's coming.

Your dog spots them. The leash goes tight. Then comes the barking, the pulling, the full-body lunge that makes you wonder if you'll keep your footing. Other dog owners give you that look. You feel embarrassed, frustrated, and honestly? A little scared.

If this sounds familiar, you're not alone. Thousands of dog owners deal with lunging behavior every single day. And here's what you need to know right now: this behavior doesn't mean your dog is aggressive, and it absolutely can be fixed.

Let's break down exactly why your dog lunges at other dogs and what you can do about it.

Understanding Why Dogs Lunge

Before we can fix the behavior, we need to understand what's driving it. When your dog lunges at other dogs, they're not trying to embarrass you or "be bad." They're communicating something specific, and identifying what that is makes all the difference in training.

The Three Types of Lunging

1. Fear-Based Reactivity

This is the most common reason dogs lunge. Your dog sees another dog as a potential threat and tries to make themselves look bigger and scarier to keep that threat away. Think of it as: "Stay back! I'm warning you!"

Signs your dog is fear-reactive:

Body stiffens when they see another dog
Tail may be tucked or low
Hackles might be raised
Lunging is accompanied by high-pitched or frantic barking
They might try to hide behind you or pull away after lunging

2. Frustration-Based Reactivity

Some dogs lunge because they desperately want to get to the other dog—not to fight, but to play or greet. The leash prevents them from doing what they naturally want to do (investigate and interact), which creates intense frustration that explodes into lunging.

Signs your dog is frustrated:

Pulls forward while lunging
Whining mixed with barking
Wagging tail (though this doesn't always mean friendliness)
Bouncy body language
Calms down relatively quickly if the other dog moves away

3. Barrier Aggression

The leash itself can create or amplify aggressive responses. Dogs who are perfectly friendly at the dog park might become reactive on-leash because they feel trapped or know they can't escape if needed. The leash becomes a barrier that increases anxiety.

Most reactive dogs show a combination of these factors. A dog might start with frustration but develop fear-based reactivity after negative interactions with other dogs on walks.

The Science Behind Leash Reactivity

Understanding the neuroscience helps you approach training with realistic expectations.

When your dog sees another dog and lunges, their brain floods with cortisol (stress hormone) and adrenaline. This is the "fight or flight" response kicking in. The problem is that once this response is triggered, your dog literally cannot think clearly. The rational, trainable part of their brain takes a back seat to pure instinct.

This is why yelling "No!" or yanking the leash doesn't work. Your dog isn't choosing to disobey—they're in a biochemical state where they physically cannot respond to commands the way they normally would.

The good news? You can retrain this response. Through consistent practice, you'll teach your dog's brain to have a different reaction when seeing other dogs. Instead of "THREAT! REACT NOW!" their brain will learn "Other dog = good things happen if I stay calm."

Common Mistakes That Make Lunging Worse

Before we get to solutions, let's address what not to do. These well-meaning approaches often backfire:

Flooding: Forcing your dog to be near other dogs to "get used to it" usually makes fear worse, not better. If your dog is already over their stress threshold, more exposure doesn't help—it just confirms their fear.

Punishment: Yelling, leash corrections, or physical corrections teach your dog that seeing other dogs = bad things happen. This creates negative associations and can actually increase reactivity.

Tight Leash Tension: Keeping the leash constantly tight sends a signal to your dog that you're tense and worried. Dogs read this as confirmation that they should be worried. Leash tension also restricts their natural body language, making it harder for them to communicate appropriately with other dogs.

Apologizing to Other Owners: While it's polite to acknowledge the situation, excessive apologizing or showing embarrassment increases your own stress—which your dog picks up on instantly. Stay calm and matter-of-fact.

Inconsistency: Working on training sometimes, but not always, confuses your dog and slows progress. Reactivity training requires consistency across all walks, all situations, every time.

The Training Protocol: How to Stop Lunging

Now for the practical part. This is the proven, science-based protocol that professional trainers use to address leash reactivity. It requires patience, but it works.

Step 1: Identify Your Dog's Threshold Distance

Your dog has a distance at which they can see another dog but remain calm enough to take treats and respond to cues. This is called their "threshold distance." For some dogs, it's 100 feet. For others, it's 10 feet.

How to find it:

Take your dog on a walk where you know you'll see other dogs
The moment your dog notices another dog, mark that distance
If your dog lunges, you're too close—that's beyond their threshold
If your dog looks at the other dog but can still look back at you and take a treat, you've found the right distance

All training happens at or beyond this threshold distance. You cannot train a dog who is already in reactive mode.

Step 2: Practice "Look at That" (LAT)

This simple game teaches your dog that seeing another dog = treats, and that checking in with you is more rewarding than reacting.

How to practice:

Position yourself at your dog's threshold distance from another dog
The moment your dog looks at the other dog, say "Yes!" and immediately give a high-value treat
As soon as your dog finishes the treat, they'll likely look at the other dog again—repeat
After several repetitions, most dogs start looking at the other dog, then quickly look back at you for their treat
Eventually, just the sight of another dog will trigger your dog to look at you instead of lunging

Key points:

Use incredibly high-value treats (real chicken, cheese, hot dogs—not regular kibble)
Keep sessions short (5-10 minutes)
Always end on a positive note before your dog gets overwhelmed
Practice in many different locations with different dogs

Step 3: Create Distance Strategically

You have several options when you see another dog approaching:

Cross the street: Creates instant distance without making it obvious you're avoiding the other dog.

Turn and walk the other direction: Sometimes the simplest solution. There's no shame in creating space.

Step behind a car or barrier: Visual barriers help tremendously. If your dog can't see the other dog, they're less likely to react.

Ask the other owner for space: A simple "My dog is in training—could you give us some room?" works. Most dog owners understand.

The goal isn't to avoid other dogs forever—it's to avoid situations where your dog practices the lunging behavior while you're still building their ability to remain calm.

Step 4: Build Engagement Before You Need It

Practice these exercises at home when there are no distractions:

Name recognition: Say your dog's name and immediately reward them for looking at you. Do this 10-20 times per day.

"Let's go" direction changes: While walking in your yard or house, suddenly change direction and say "Let's go!" in an upbeat voice. Reward your dog for following.

"Touch" command: Teach your dog to touch your hand with their nose. This gives you an emergency "interrupt" cue during walks.

These skills give you tools to redirect your dog's attention before they go over threshold.

Step 5: Gradually Decrease Distance

As your dog gets better at remaining calm at their threshold distance, you can slowly decrease the distance over weeks or months.

Progress looks like this:

Week 1-2: 100 feet away, dog remains calm
Week 3-4: 75 feet away, dog remains calm
Week 5-6: 50 feet away, dog shows brief interest but recovers quickly
Week 7-8: 30 feet away, dog automatically looks at you

If your dog regresses and starts lunging again, you've decreased distance too quickly. Go back to the last successful distance and spend more time there.

The Role of Equipment in Managing Reactivity

Training is the long-term solution, but the right equipment makes management much easier—and safer—during the training process.

Traditional Collars vs. Training Collars

Standard flat collars often make reactivity worse because:

All pressure goes to a single point on the neck
This pressure can trigger more pulling
Dogs can easily power through the discomfort when they're in reactive mode

The BravoWalk training collar distributes pressure evenly around the neck, which:

Gives you more control without choking
Reduces the physical sensation that triggers more pulling
Allows you to guide your dog effectively without pain or panic

Important note: No equipment is a substitute for training. The BravoWalk collar is a management tool that makes training possible by giving you the control you need to practice at appropriate distances.

Leash Length Matters

For reactivity training:

Use a 4-6 foot leash: Gives you control without allowing your dog to get too far away
Avoid retractable leashes: These teach dogs to pull (tension = going forward) and give you less control in reactive situations
Consider a double-ended leash: Clips to both collar and harness for maximum control during training

Body Harnesses: Pros and Cons

Many trainers recommend front-clip harnesses for reactive dogs because they redirect the dog's forward momentum. However:

Pros:

Reduces choking
Can help with general pulling
Comfortable for everyday walks

Cons:

May not provide enough control during a full lunge
Some dogs learn to power through the front-clip
Can restrict natural shoulder movement

The best setup is often a combination: harness for regular walks, training collar for high-distraction environments during training sessions.

Managing Your Own Emotions

Here's something most training articles don't address: your stress directly impacts your dog's behavior.

Dogs are masters at reading human body language and energy. When you see another dog approaching and your shoulders tense, your breathing changes, and you tighten the leash—your dog notices. This signals to them that there is something to worry about.

Practical stress management:

Breathe deeply: Taking slow, deep breaths actually calms your nervous system and sends calmer signals to your dog.

Loosen your leash hand: Consciously relax your grip. A loose leash tells your dog everything is okay.

Change your self-talk: Instead of "Oh no, another dog," try "Good, a training opportunity."

Celebrate small wins: Did your dog see another dog from 50 feet and not react? That's huge progress. Acknowledge it.

Take breaks: If you're dreading walks, your dog feels it. It's okay to do backyard training for a few days to reset.

Timeline: What to Expect

Let's set realistic expectations. You won't fix leash reactivity in a week. Here's what typical progress looks like:

Week 1-2: Learning your dog's threshold, practicing basics, figuring out what treats work best. Lots of trial and error. This phase feels slow.

Week 3-4: Your dog starts to understand the "look at that" game. You'll see occasional moments of choosing to look at you instead of reacting. These moments are gold.

Week 5-8: Consistency builds. Your dog's threshold distance starts to decrease. You can walk closer to other dogs without reactions. You'll have setbacks—that's normal.

Month 3-4: Major improvement. Your dog can pass other dogs at reasonable distances most of the time. You start to feel confident on walks again.

Month 6+: Your dog is reliable in most situations. You still manage their environment and practice engagement, but walks are genuinely enjoyable now.

Every dog is different. Some progress faster, some slower. Factors that impact timeline:

Your dog's age (younger dogs often progress faster)
How long the reactivity has been happening
Your consistency with training
Your dog's temperament
The number of triggers (some dogs are only reactive to certain breeds, others to all dogs)

When to Seek Professional Help

You can make significant progress on your own, but some situations call for a professional trainer:

Seek help if:

Your dog has bitten or attempted to bite another dog
Your dog's reactivity is getting worse despite training
You feel unsafe handling your dog
Your dog shows reactivity to people as well as dogs
Your dog has other serious behavioral issues
You're not seeing any progress after 2-3 months of consistent work

Look for a certified trainer who uses positive reinforcement methods. Credentials to look for:

CPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer)
KPA CTP (Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner)
IAABC (International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants)

Avoid trainers who talk about "dominance," "alpha rolls," or who use shock collars or harsh corrections. These methods damage your relationship with your dog and can make reactivity worse.

Real Success Stories

Sarah and Max: "My German Shepherd lunged at every dog we saw. I couldn't even check the mail without planning an escape route. After 3 months of consistent LAT training, we walked past the dog park yesterday without a single reaction. Max just looked at the dogs, then at me, wagging his tail. I almost cried."

James and Bella: "Bella is a rescue who came to us already reactive. The BravoWalk collar gave me the control I needed to actually do training instead of just surviving walks. Combined with the threshold training, she went from barking at dogs 100 feet away to calmly walking past dogs on the same sidewalk. It took 5 months, but it completely changed our lives."

The Martinez Family: "Our kids were scared to walk our dog because of the lunging. Now our 12-year-old can handle him. The training process taught us to read his body language better, and now we can prevent reactions before they happen."

Key Takeaways

Fixing leash reactivity is absolutely possible, but it requires:

Understanding the "why" behind your dog's behavior
Consistent practice at appropriate threshold distances
Quality equipment that gives you control without causing pain
Managing your own emotions during training
Patience measured in months, not weeks
Realistic expectations with built-in flexibility for setbacks

Your dog isn't "bad." They're scared, frustrated, or overwhelmed. With the right approach, you can teach them that other dogs aren't a threat and that staying calm near you is the most rewarding choice they can make.

Every walk is a training opportunity. Every moment your dog chooses to look at you instead of lunging is a win worth celebrating. Progress isn't always linear, but it is possible.

Ready to start? Grab some high-value treats, find your dog's threshold distance, and take it one walk at a time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Will my dog ever be able to greet other dogs normally?

A: It depends. Some dogs become comfortable enough to have controlled greetings after extensive training. Others do better simply learning to walk past other dogs calmly without direct interaction. Both outcomes are successful—it's about what's realistic and safe for your specific dog.

Q: My dog is fine with dogs they know but reactive to strangers. Is this different?

A: Not fundamentally. Your dog has learned that familiar dogs are safe but hasn't generalized that to unknown dogs. The same training protocol works—you're teaching your dog that strange dogs also predict good things.

Q: Can I use a prong collar or e-collar for reactivity?

A: Professional behaviorists strongly discourage this. These tools can create additional negative associations with other dogs and may suppress the obvious signs of reactivity (lunging) while increasing internal stress—which can eventually lead to a bite without warning.

Q: How do I explain to other dog owners that my dog can't greet theirs?

A: Keep it simple: "My dog is in training and can't greet right now." You don't owe anyone a detailed explanation. Most dog-savvy people will understand and respect your space.

Q: What if my dog is reactive to some dogs but not others?

A: This is common. Many dogs react to certain sizes, colors, or breeds while being fine with others. Training should address all triggers, even if some are more intense than others. Your dog is making distinctions based on characteristics that signal threat to them.

Q: Is leash reactivity a sign my dog wasn't socialized properly as a puppy?

A: Sometimes, but not always. Even well-socialized dogs can become reactive due to a single scary experience, illness, aging, or changes in their environment. Don't blame yourself—focus on moving forward with training that works.

Dealing with a reactive dog is stressful, but you're not alone.

The BravoWalk collar is designed to give you the control you need during training without causing discomfort to your dog. Learn more about how it works.